Eat & Drink
Latvian cuisine is built on rye, pork, smoked fish, dairy, and whatever the forest provides. Riga's food scene has evolved rapidly — you'll find everything from medieval-cellar beer halls to Michelin-quality tasting menus, all at a fraction of Western European prices.
Latvia's national dish — dried grey peas slow-cooked with smoked bacon and onions. Hearty, simple, and deeply satisfying. Traditionally eaten at Christmas but available year-round.
Where: Lido, Folkklubs Ala Pagrabs
Baltic smoked sprats on dark rye bread with butter is the quintessential Latvian snack. The fish pavilion at Central Market has the best selection — try the hot-smoked salmon too.
Where: Central Market fish pavilion
A legendary herbal liqueur made since 1752 from 24 herbs, roots, and berries. Drink it neat, in coffee, or mixed with blackcurrant juice (the local favourite). 45% ABV — sip slowly.
Where: Black Magic Bar (Old Town)
A traditional Latvian tart with a rye crust filled with carrot and potato purée, sweetened with caraway. It has EU Protected Designation of Origin status.
Where: Central Market, Rigensis bakery
Riga has a thriving craft beer scene. Look for local breweries like Valmiermuiža, Labietis (wild ales), and Malduguns. The Gastro Quarter at Central Market is the best starting point.
Where: Labietis taproom, Riga Central Market Gastro Quarter
Latvians are passionate foragers. In season (Aug-Oct), markets overflow with wild chanterelles, boletus, blueberries, and cranberries. Even supermarkets sell foraged goods.
Where: Central Market, any forest outside Riga
Central Market's five pavilions can be overwhelming on a first visit — a guided food tour covers 8-10 tastings in 3 hours, or read our full food guide for a self-guided route.
Three rotating chefs, one kitchen. Modern Latvian cuisine with seasonal tasting menus. Riga's most exciting restaurant.
Cavernous beer hall in a medieval cellar. Live folk music, grey peas, and 20+ Latvian beers on tap. Touristy but genuinely fun.
Seasonal Latvian ingredients in a rustic-chic setting. Excellent value lunch menus. The mushroom soup is legendary.
Translates to 'Herrings and Dill.' Tiny, charming, and focused on Baltic fish. Book ahead — only 20 seats.
A Latvian institution — self-service buffet with dozens of traditional dishes. Not gourmet, but authentic, cheap (€5-8 for a full meal), and beloved by locals.
Riga's hipster street. MIIT Coffee, Rocket Bean Roastery, and a dozen independent cafés within 500 metres.
Eating on a tighter budget? See our Riga on a budget guide for a full daily cost breakdown, including where to eat for under €10.
Grey peas with bacon (pelēkie zirņi) is generally considered Latvia's national dish — dried grey peas slow-cooked with smoked bacon and onions, traditionally eaten at Christmas but available year-round at restaurants like Lido and Folkklubs Ala Pagrabs.
Rīgas Melnais Balzams is a herbal liqueur made since 1752 from 24 herbs, roots, and berries, at 45% ABV. Drink it neat, in coffee, or mixed with blackcurrant juice, the local favourite.
Yes — it's Europe's largest market, housed in former Zeppelin hangars, with dedicated meat, fish, dairy, and vegetable pavilions plus a newer Gastro Quarter for craft beer and street food. A guided food tour is the easiest way to navigate it.
Very. Lido, a self-service Latvian buffet chain, serves a full traditional meal for €5-8, and Central Market's pavilions are cheaper than any tourist-area restaurant for the same ingredients.
The best way to discover Latvian food is on a guided market tour — 3 hours, 8-10 tastings, and stories you won't find in any guidebook.
Book a Food Tour